There really is something fascinating about Belgrade. A pinnacle city that has transformed many times, physically taking form in a post Soviet/Yugoslavian landscape with commanding architecture and bold symbolism that can be beautiful and intimidating at times. A heavy history of resilience in the capital city is the rebar holding the towering concrete blocks in place. Visible scars and exposed metal creates a brutal texture that feels both ancient and modern. Familiar, yet foreign.

There is a weight owed to the violent past and political corruption , but a genuine energy holds the space. A beating heart in the Balkans, driven by a thriving culture of young and old taking place in the achievements and ruins of their predecessors, traditions and civilisations flowing for all of time.

I have visited a few times as a foreigner travelling alone, I am welcomed every time with warm hospitality and an openness from both new and repeated faces. No hesitation to make room for an extra seat at the table, where we share grilled meat, beer and stories about life and navigating this urban jungle.

Shoutout to Beowallz and all the local dudes I’ve inhaled paint fumes with.